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How to Lay Sod on Top of Sod

Renovating a lawn damaged by pests, disease, or the elements is a job that no homeowner looks forward to. The best way to renovate a lawn is to remove the existing sod. New sod can be laid over old sod, but the success rate is not as high. Major drawbacks are that the height of your lawn changes, and considerable preparation with a large measure of hard labor is required.

Things You'll Need

  • Soil test kit
  • Pesticide
  • Fungicide
  • Sprinkler
  • Backpack or pump sprayer
  • Lawn mower
  • Leaf rake
  • Garden rake
  • Herbicide
  • Compost or composted manure
  • Phosphorous and potassium fertilizer
  • Lime or sulfur
  • Rope or barricade tape
  • Power rake or sod cutter (optional)
  • Sod pins (optional)
  • Sod roller (optional)
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Instructions

    • 1

      Perform a soil test. The soil must be within certain ranges of pH and fertility for sod to successfully establish roots. County extension offices may perform a soil test for free or for a small charge.

    • 2

      Kill the disease or pests that damaged your lawn. If you don't, the same fate awaits your new sod. If your lawn was killed by flood, freeze, or some other natural disaster, killing the pests is still a necessary step, because some diseases and pests can survive or even thrive in these conditions.

    • 3

      Water your lawn for 10 days to encourage new growth of any surviving grass or weeds. Spray the existing lawn with an herbicide containing glyphosate, the most effective chemical for this job. Glyphosate kills only actively growing grass and weeds.

    • 4

      Allow the area to dry for 24 hours. Water for 20 additional days, spot spraying with herbicide areas of growth that appear.

    • 5

      Mow your lawn to 1/2 inch tall. Rake and remove all clippings. Using a bagger mower makes this simpler. Remove the thatch, the layer of organic material covering the soil surface, so the roots of the new sod can make contact with the soil. Raking the thatch away is fine, but a power rake or sod cutter makes the job easier and roughens the soil for better root contact with the new sod.

    • 6

      Spread an inch of composted manure or organic fertilizer over the area to be sodded. Spread potassium and phosphorous fertilizers and lime or sulfur to adjust the pH according to the soil test results.

    • 7

      Obtain sod that has been cut no more than 24 hours prior to installation. If sod must be stored, keep it in shade and maintain the moisture level.

    • 8

      Water the lawn thoroughly 24 hours before you lay the new sod. Lay the sod in staggered rows, like laying bricks. Lay sod on slopes by rolling it out across the slope and securing it on either end with sod pins.

    • 9

      Tamp the sod with a sod roller one-third full of water to ensure proper moisture and good root contact with the soil. Barricade the area with rope or barricade tape to keep it free of foot traffic.

    • 10

      Water the area daily for the first seven days, keeping it moist but not soggy. Gradually reduce watering for the next two to three months, until the sod is established enough to mow.