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How to Install Silicone Butcher Block

There's nothing quite like the warmth and comfort that the look of wood provides your home. When spread across your countertops as a butcher-block surface, you get not only the look and feel, but a counter that is ideal for cutting, baking and other kitchen preparation needs. Installing the countertop varies little from other countertop surface applications. The biggest difference is the wood needs to breathe, so if you have a solid underlayment you must elevate the counter slightly with furring strips. Otherwise, add cabinet blocking and secure the butcher block in place.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • 1/4-inch plywood
  • 1/2-inch plywood (optional)
  • Silicone adhesive
  • Drill
  • Deck screws, various lengths
  • 1/2-inch paddle drill bit
  • Fender washers
  • Backsplash
  • Mineral oil
  • Lint-free cloth
  • Polyurethane-based varnish (optional)
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure the depth of the interior of the countertop base cabinets, from front to back. Measure again to find the length of the cabinets. Divide the cabinet length by 12 inches to determine the number of furring strips or cabinet blocks you need.

    • 2

      Subtract 2 inches from the depth measurement if you have a solid counter underlayment. Measure and cut 1/4-inch blocks this length to create furring strips, one for each foot of countertop length. Spread a bead of silicone adhesive across the bottom of each strip and place accordingly, 1 inch from either edge.

    • 3

      Measure and cut full length 1/4- or 1/2-inch thick plywood blocks for blocking if the cabinets are open-faced -- without covering. The thicker the block, the sturdier the butcher-block cabinet support will be.

    • 4

      Drill pilot holes, at an angle, through the blocking and out the end of the block. Start about 1/2 inch away from the edge and point toward about 1/4 inch away, on the opposite side, to accomplish this. Secure each brace to the cabinet, flush with the top edges, using screws long enough to penetrate into the cabinet walls without piercing the cabinet completely, unless the cabinet wall is hidden from view.

    • 5

      Bore a hole through the center of each blocking strip or through the underlayment where a furring strip runs. Use a drill with 1/2-inch paddle bit to create the hole. These provide the holes for securing the butcher block to the cabinetry.

    • 6

      Set the butcher block in place on top of the cabinets. Adjust as desired. Feel free to leave the slightest gap -- less than 1/8-inch -- between the butcher block and any walls to allow for expansion of the wood. This occurs in response to heat and moisture, along with seasonal fluctuations.

    • 7

      Climb inside the cabinet and fit a deck screw, as thick as the cabinet support plus half the butcher block thickness, with a fender washer larger than the hole in the blocking or underlayment. Drive the screw through holes into the butcher block above. Tighten enough to feel the counter grow snug against the cabinet but avoid over-tightening, which causes stress and possibly cracks.

    • 8

      Place the backsplash. Run a bead of silicone behind it to secure firmly. Squirt silicone into any gaps around the backspash to the countertop joint or where the backsplash joins the wall.

    • 9

      Rub mineral oil into the butcher block with a lint-free cloth. Apply liberally and allow it to soak in for 15 or 20 minutes before wiping the excess away. Re-treat as needed, typically monthly.