Porch Railing Installation

Place a level against the wooden support beams coming up around the porch's edges. Back the screws out, using a drill and Phillips-head drill bit, and adjust the beams if they are not plumb. Measure the distance between the beams to see if they are at least 6 feet apart from center.

Cut the metal post sleeves with a circular saw. Make the sleeves 1 1/2 inch higher than the railing's height will be. Slide the cut sleeves over each support beam. Slide a decorative cover over each sleeve until it rests on the porch's surface.

Lay the railing's bottom rung in front of the first two sleeves. Locate the middle pre-drilled railing hole and center it between the two sleeve posts. Measure the gap between the two sleeves. Add an additional 1/2 inch to this measurement. Divide this number by two to determine how much to cut off each of the bottom rung's ends with the circular saw. Cut the same amount off the top rung.

Cut four 3-inch squares from a scrap two-by-four. Place two of the squares underneath the bottom rail's ends to lift it off the ground. Push one end bracket onto each of the rail's ends. Mark the brackets' top edges with a pen. Use a drill and Phillips-head drill bit to secure a baluster connector into each pre-drilled screw hole in both the top and bottom rungs. The baluster connectors are where the railing's rungs are installed. Set the bottom run aside.

Line up the brackets' top edges with the mark you just made. Mark the brackets' screw holes with a marker. Drill pilot holes through the markings with a 1/4-inch drill bit. Line up the brackets' holes with the pilot holes and secure them in place with the provided screws. Cut the small foot piece to the height between the bottom rung's bottom edge and the porch's surface. Push the foot into the center hole on the bottom rung's bottom edge.

Measure the height of the rail up the sleeve posts. Hold the brackets against the sleeve post and mark the screw holes. Use the 1/4-inch drill bit to drill pilot holes through the markings. Secure the bracket in place with the provided screws.

Place a tube of construction adhesive in a caulk gun. Cut off the tube's tip with a utility knife. Squeeze some adhesive into the first baluster connector. Push a rung firmly into the connector. Do the same with the second connector and work down the length of the railing.

Slide the top rail into the top bracket. Line up the rungs with the baluster connectors. Use a rubber mallet to tap the top rail firmly down over the rungs and into the brackets.

Cut the cap rail 1/2 inch longer than the top and bottom rails. Separate the insert from the cap rail. Lay the cap rail insert on top of the top rail. Drill seven 1/4-inch pilot holes, evenly spaced, through the top rail. Secure it in place with the provided screws.

Run a bead of construction adhesive down the length of the insert. Lay the cap rail over the insert and push down until it snaps into place. Run a bead of construction adhesive around the post caps' inside edge. Push the cap onto the sleeve post.