How to Make a Shoe Organizer That Hangs

Determine the height of the organizer, A. Measure the length of the door where it will be hung and subtract 8 inches. Find the width of the organizer, B. Multiply the desired number of pockets in each row by 6 inches. For example, a four-pocket-wide organizer would be 24 inches wide.

Select a sturdy, non-knit, non-stretch, stain-resistant material such as canvas for the body of the organizer.

Cut a piece of fabric equal to the height and width of A and B, respectively. This piece will form the back of the organizer. For a sturdier backing, double up the material. Cut two pieces. Sew along three sides of the material 1/4 inch from the raw edge. Invert the casing. Insert a sheet of fusible web into the case. Place a strip of leather into the case to reinforce the upper part of the backing. Stitch the fourth side closed, being sure to catch the fusing and reinforcement strip. Iron the piece to fuse the material and press the seams.

Install four to five evenly spaced grommets in the top of the organizer. Be sure to go through the reinforced strip at the top.

Determine the depth of the organizer pockets, C. This dimension should be equal to half or three-quarters the length of your shoes from toe to heel along the sole, plus 3 inches. Use 8 inches as a default pocket depth.

Calculate the width of the pocket material, D. This measurement is three times B.

Measure a strip of canvas as wide as C and as long as D. Add a 1-inch seam allowance to the length and width. Cut the material with scissors.

Hem the long sides of the canvas strip. Fold the material over 1/2 inch twice and sew. Repeat, hemming the short sides of the strip in the same manner.

Mark the boundaries of each pocket on the strip. Divide the strip lengthwise by the number of pockets. For example, a four-pocket-wide organizer with a 72-inch-wide strip will have a mark every 18 inches.

Divide each section of the strip into sixths, placing a mark at each measurement. For example, each 18-inch section will have a mark 3, 6, 9, 12 and 15 inches from the left edge.

Fold the material to make the body of each pocket. Lay the canvas strip right-side up. Fold the left end toward the right, tucking under the strip, bending at the 6-inch mark. Fold the same flap back under itself at the 3-inch mark. View the fold from the top; it should resemble a "Z." Pin the folds in place.

Shape the other end of the pocket folding toward the left at the 12-inch mark and toward the right at the 15-inch mark. This step completes the first pocket. View the entire pocket from the top; it should resemble a "Z" and a backward "Z." Pin the folds in place.

Repeat for the remaining pockets. Measure the strip, which should be equal to measurement B.

Sew a basting stitch along the top, center and bottom of the pocket canvas, lengthwise, to hold the folds in place.

Place the canvas piece on the bottom of the sturdy backing piece. Sew along the bottom of the pockets using a straight stitch. Add a second row of stitches below the first for strength.

Sew vertically along the boundary of each pocket. Remove pins as needed to access this area.

Hand-stitch the outer sides of the first and final pocket to the backing.

Iron the pockets to sharpen the creases, then remove all pins and basting stitches.

Repeat steps 7 through 14 to make additional tiers of pockets. Align the bottom of the next tier 3 to 6 inches above the preceding tier. Repeat steps 15 through 18 to secure the pockets in place.

Hang the organizer using over-the-door hooks. Place the hooks on the door and hang the organizer up by the grommets. You can also insert ribbon into the grommets and tie the organizer to a closet rod.