How Do I Hem My Pleated School Skirt or Kilt?

1. Preparation Tools

- School skirt

- Tape measure

- Fabric chalk or disappearing fabric pen

- Hemstitch guide (included with most sewing machines)

- Iron

- Thread and sewing machine or needle and thread

2. Measuring

- Wear the skirt with the proper footwear and stand upright.

- If the skirt has multiple pleats, try spreading the pleats to achieve an even hemline.

- Measure the desired length from the waistband to the desired hemline.

- Add a 1-inch (2.5 cm) hem allowance to the measurement taken.

- Mark the desired hemline with fabric chalk or a disappearing fabric pen.

3. Pleats Preparation

- If the pleats are stitched down, unpick the stitching until the waist to allow the pleats to open out.

- Iron the pleats carefully, ensuring that they are pressed down flat.

- If the pleats are very crisp, lightly score the pleat folds on the reverse side with small snips to allow the fabric to bend more easily during sewing.

4. Hemming

- Fold up the skirt along the hemline marked earlier, wrong sides together. Press this fold in place to create the desired hemline.

- Pin the hem in place, ensuring the pleats are evenly arranged.

- Starting at the back center, use a hemming stitch to sew along the hem, catching both layers of fabric. If sewing by hand, use a blind hem stitch to ensure the stitches are invisible from the right side.

5. Adjusting the Pleats

- If needed, adjust the pleats by carefully pulling or releasing them to ensure they are evenly distributed around the hemline.

6. Finishing Touches

- Iron the hem one more time to ensure a neat and professional finish.

- If the skirt has been unpicked at the waist, resew the pleats down securely.

Tips for Success**

- Always measure twice to ensure you have an accurate measurement before cutting any fabric.

- Take special care when pinning and sewing around pleats to maintain their integrity.

- Hand sewing might be preferred if you're not confident in your machine sewing skills, as it allows for more control and precision when navigating the pleats.

- Trim any excess threads when finished to ensure a clean finish.

- If the skirt has a waistband, make sure to account for the extra length when measuring and cutting the hem.