Instructions on How to Build an Adirondack Chair

Cut wood pieces to the following dimensions:

2 legs—1 1/2 by 5 1/2 by 34 1/2 inches
1 apron—1 1/2 by 5 1/2 by 21 inches
1 seat support—1 1/2 by 3 1/2 by 18 inches
1 Low back brace—1 1/2 by 3 1/2 by 18 inches
1 high back brace—3/4 by 1 1/2 by 18 inches
1 arm cleat—1 1/2 by 3 1/2 by 24 inches
1 arm—3/4 by 5 1/2 by 28 inches
2 posts—1 1/2 by 3 1/2 by 22 inches
2 arm brace—1 1/2 × 2 1/4 × 10 inches
2 narrow seat slat—3/4 by 1 1/2 by 20 1/4 inches
3 wide seat slats—3/4 × 5 1/2 × 20 1/4
2 end back slats—3/4 by 3 1/2 by 36 inches
2 narrow back slats—3/4 by 1 1/2 by 38 inches
1 center back slat—3/4 by 5 1/2 by 40 inches

Organize the cut pieces into three groups for assembly: seat, back and arms.

Measure 2 inches in and 6 inches down on opposite corners of one end of the leg board and connect these marks with a straight edge to determine the angle for your taper cut. On the other side of the same end of the board, measure 2 1/4 inches and 10 inches down and connect with a straight edge. Use a circular saw to cut the tapers on the ends of both legs.

Assemble the seat frame using 3-inch wood screws. The apron board is the front, the legs are the sides and the seat support is the back. The seat support is positioned 16 1/2 inches from the inside of the apron board.

Sand the outside edges of the seat slats smooth. Fasten them to the top of the seat using 2-inch wood screws leaving 3/8 of an inch between each slat. The front seat slat overhangs 3/4 inch past the apron.

Measure 2 inches in from either direction on both top corners of the center back slat and scribe a pencil line connecting the points. Trim both corners of the center back slat and trim the same cut from only one corner of both end back slats.

Place the high back brace and the low back brace on a level surface 26 inches apart and parallel and add 3/4 inch spacers under the high back brace so that the top plane of both boards is level. Place the end back slats, narrow back slats and center back slat on both braces with the untrimmed edges flush with the low back brace. To fasten the boards in place, use 2-inch wood screws for the lower back brace and 1 1/4-inch wood screws for the high back brace.

Measure 1 inch out and 1 1/2 inches out in the other direction of the front outermost corner of the arm boards and scribe a pencil line on each. Trim these corners off of the arm boards. On the outside side of the back of the arm, mark and cut 2 inches in and 10 inches down to taper the corner.

Measure in 2 1/2 inches in from either side of the top edge of the arm cleat. Place the arms on top of the this edge of the cleat on a work surface and line the untapered back edges of the arms up with the marks on the edge of the cleat. Fasten these boards in place using 3-inch wood screws.

Use a compass to measure a 1 3/4-inch radius curve on the bottom edge of each post and cut with a jig saw. Attach these to the underside of the front side of the arms at 1 1/2 inches in from the edge and 1 inch in from the inside using 3 inch wood screws. Cut a 2 1/2-inch-by-10-inch taper on the arm brace boards and assemble them to the underside outer corners of the front of the arms and posts.

Set the seat assembly on the work top with a 10 scrap board clamped under the front edge of the seat to that it sits on the back tapered edge. Set the arm assembly in place using a 20-inch scrap board clamped to the cleat in the back. Use lag screws to fasten the posts to the legs.

Remove the braces and slide the back assembly in front of the arm cleat down until it is flush with the seat support board and clamp it. Use 1 1/2-inch screws near the top edge of the cleat to fasten it to the chair back. Use 3-inch wood screws to fasten the back to the legs and seat support. Now you are ready to color your Adirondack chair.