How to Build a Small Wooden Adirondack Chair

Choose a strong and durable wood. The University of Minnesota says some economical choices that retain strength, resist rot and look nice unfinished include redwood, cedar, cypress and pressure treated wood.

Cut the wood pieces to the following sizes:

1-inch-by-4-inch board: two pieces 25 1/2-inches (back legs), one 15-inch piece (front apron) and one 13 1/2-inch piece (back apron).

1-inch-by-2-inch boards: five 15-inch pieces (seat slats), two 14 1/2-inch pieces (arm supports), one 13 1/2-inch piece (back trim) and one 16-1/2 inch piece (back support).

1-inch-by-3-inch boards: one 15-inch piece (front seat slat), two 13-inch pieces (front legs), two 14 1/2-inch pieces (arm rests) and five 20 3/4-inch pieces (back slats).

Shape the back legs. On one cut end, measure 3/4-inch from the corner along the long edge and mark. Measure 2 inches down the long edge of the other corner and mark it. Measure 1/2-inch along the cut end from the corner with the 2-inch mark and mark again. Draw a line from the 1/2-inch mark to the 2-inch mark, creating a small wedge with the longest leg along the length of the board. Draw another line from the 1/2-inch mark to the 3/4-inch mark on the other side of the cut end. This will make a larger wedge with the longest leg along the cut end of the board. Repeat this process on the other cut end of the board, but reverse the sides — the smaller wedge on top of the board and the larger wedge toward the bottom. Use the jigsaw to cut these wedges away on both boards.

Attach the front apron piece to the front edge of the back legs using two 2-inch outdoor screws per side. Keep the top edges and cut sides aligned.

Attach the front seat slat to the top of the back slanted legs and the front apron piece. Overlap the seat slat over the front apron by 1/4 inch. Leaving 1/4-inch gap between slats, add the five seat slats along the top edge of the back legs. These slats will not cover all the way to the back of the legs.

Attach the front legs to the seat. Align the front edge with the front edge of the front seat slat. Make sure the chair stands solidly on the ground and the top of the seat is approximately 10 inches high.

Arrange the five back slats side by side with 1/4-inch gap between them. Trace an even, shallow curve across the top edges. Use the jigsaw to cut the tops to the curve and sand smooth.

Arrange the back apron, back support and back trim parallel to each other on a solid work surface. The back support should be 8 5/8 inches from the bottom edge of the back apron. The back trim will be higher based on the shape of the top ends of the back slats.

Lay the slats on top of and perpendicular to the back pieces, maintaining the 1/4-inch gap between slats. Align the back apron piece to the bottom cut edges of the slats. Center the back support so that 1 1/2 inches of board protrudes from either side of the slats. Place the back trim piece as close to the top as possible while remaining completely behind the slats. Secure in place using 1/4-inch screws.

Attach the armrest supports to the front legs with the widest faces together and the support piece on the outside face of the leg. Use the level to make sure the free end is properly aligned and secure with 1 1/4-inch screws.

Fit the back piece to the seat so that the back apron sits between the back legs, the back support piece meets with the armrest supports and the back slats sit flush to the back edge of the back seat slat. Attach to the chair with two screws on either side at the back legs and armrest supports.

Attach the armrests so that the inner edge aligns with the inner edge of the front leg, the front edge is aligned with the front edge of the leg, the widest face is horizontal and the back edge rests on the back support piece.