How to Grade a Lawn for Sod

Prepare the site for grading. Remove all large rocks, sticks, stumps, junk and other debris. If your site has poor water drainage, this is also the time to install a drainage system. Kill weeds at this time as well with an appropriate herbicide, reading the label for proper application and to find out the necessary amount of time you must wait before laying sod.

Grade the lawn, roughly. Use a rake and even out the soil in your yard. Slopes are okay; just fill in any low-lying areas and make it flow smoothly. Along your home, though, and other buildings, create a gentle slope so the water does not drain toward the buildings. As you do the rough grading, remove any more debris you come across.

Improve the soil before making the final grade. Incorporate approximately 4 inches of top soil into the top 6 inches of your existing soil. For sandy soils, incorporate 2 inches of top soil and 2 inches of organic matter -- such as compost or leaf mold. According to University of Rhode Island, also add 50 lbs. dolomitic limestone for every 1,000 square feet and a starter lawn fertilizer, applying 1 lb. of nitrogen for every 1,000 square feet. (The amount differs based on fertilizers and nitrogen strengths, though, so always heed the packaging instructions.) Work both into the top 6 inches of the newly amended soil.

Grade the soil for the last time before laying the sod. Use a garden rake and rake the soil so it is smooth without bumps and holes. Remember to keep the soil slightly sloped away from buildings. Even out any shallow areas and make sloping areas smooth and as consistent as possible. If you have a roller, lightly roll over the lawn. Then, go over the soil again with a rake to make any final adjustments.