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How to Make a PVC Arbor

One of the simplest designs for arbors involves PVC pipe, a commonly available, white or gray plastic plumbing pipe used primarily for indoor drains and vents. You can buy the pipe at any home center in a variety of lengths, and it's easy to cut with a hacksaw. In no time, you can have an arbor over a gate or as an entrance to a garden. Because PVC pipe is not rated for outdoors, it can discolor with sun exposure; it's a good idea to paint your arbor with any compatible exterior paint, which also hides the inevitable purple residue of the PVC primer used in gluing the pipe joints.

Things You'll Need

  • (4) 6-foot lengths of 1¼-inch PVC pipe
  • (14) 2-foot lengths of 1¼-inch PVC pipe
  • (4) 3-foot lengths of 1¼-inch PVC pipe
  • (4) 6-inch lengths of 1¼-inch PVC pipe
  • (8) T connectors
  • (4) 4-way connectors
  • (4) 90-degree elbows
  • Hacksaw
  • Utility knife
  • PVC primer and solvent glue
  • Posthole digger
  • Gloves
  • Scrap two-by-four
  • Paint (optional)
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Instructions

    • 1

      Cut the pipe pieces to the lengths specified in the "Things You'll Need" list, using a hacksaw, reciprocating saw, or plastic pipe cutter. Clean the shavings from each cut end with a utility knife or sandpaper. You will dry-fit the assembly first to ensure a proper fit. This arbor is about 40 inches wide with two ladder-like stands of pipe on each side connected with four cross-pieces over the middle. The arbor stands approximately 9 feet tall with 2 feet buried in the ground.

    • 2

      Lay the four 6-foot sections of pipe on the ground. Fit a T connector to the top of each 6-foot pipe so the middle hub on the connector is perpendicular to the length of the pipe.

    • 3

      Place a 2-foot section of pipe into the top hub of each of the four T connectors; these pipe sections are aligned with the 6-foot pipes.

    • 4

      Fit another T connector to the top of each of the 2-foot pipes, using the same orientation as before, then add another 2-foot section of pipe on top of the T connectors. This creates four pipe assemblies that are a little over 10 feet long.

    • 5

      Fit a 4-way connector to the top of each of the pipe assemblies, again so the middle hubs are perpendicular to the length of the assembly. Add a 6-inch section of pipe to the top hub of each 4-way connector.

    • 6

      Add an elbow to the top of the 6-inch pipes. Each assembly should have four lengths of pipe, two T connectors, one 4-way connector and an elbow at the top.

    • 7

      Join two of the pipe assemblies with three 2-foot lengths of pipe fitted into the T connectors and 4-way connectors, creating a ladder-like structure. The remaining open hubs on the elbows and 4-ways should be facing the same direction. Repeat with the other two pipe assemblies to complete the pipe stands.

    • 8

      Position the two pipe stands upright so the open hubs on the elbows and 4-ways face one another. Join the two stands with four 3-foot lengths of pipe fitted into the elbows and 4-ways. This completes the arbor dry-assembly.

    • 9

      Check the fit and size of the arbor, keeping in mind that at least 2 feet of the bottom pipes will be buried in the ground. If the arbor is too tall, you can trim the 6-foot pipes at the bottom or plan to bury the pipes deeper than 2 feet. When you're satisfied with the construction, disassemble the arbor and secure each pipe-connector/elbow joint with PVC primer and solvent glue, following the manufacturer's directions. You can take apart and glue up the joints one at a time or disassemble the entire structure and rebuild it in the same manner as before. Let the completed arbor sit undisturbed for the curing time recommended by the glue manufacturer.

    • 10

      Dig four holes to a depth of 2 feet or more, using a posthole digger or shovel; each hole is for one of the 6-foot bottom pipes of the arbor. Set the arbor into the holes and make sure it stands plumb. Back-fill the holes with soil, compacting every few inches firmly with a scrap two-by-four or four-by-four.