How to Build a Bed Nook Into a Wall

Remove any baseboard or quarter-round trim from the alcove with a small flat bar.

Measure the mattress to be used and measure depth and width of the area between the walls. If the mattress is narrower than the depth of the alcove, plan to set the bed in slightly, creating an inset lip.

Mark a line on the floor for the front edge of the mattress, using a piece of chalk. If the room is carpeted, cut out the carpet with a razor knife to reveal the subfloor. Mark the mattress area on the subfloor.

Cut six pieces of 2-by-4-inch lumber to match the measurement between the two walls. These are the horizontal support plates for the bed frame.

Stack two pieces with wide sides facing together, apply wood glue and allow to dry according to the product label. Screw the pieces together with 3-inch wood screws; use two screws at each end and use additional sets of two screws spaced 6 inches apart down the length of the board. Repeat one more time to make a second finished piece; set aside.

Screw two of the boards into the floor with 3-inch wood screws; use a stud finder to locate the floor joists to ensure the board is anchored well. One board butts up against the wall and the front edge of the second board lines up with the chalk line on the floor.

Determine the desired height for the top of the mattress, then use the mattress thickness to calculate the necessary length for the 16 vertical supports. If the desired finish height of the mattress is 24 inches and the mattress is 4 inches thick, the bed frame must account for 20 inches of height. The bed frame utilizes a total of three 2-by-4 horizontal support plates which have an actual thickness of 1½-inches each. Subtract a total of 4½ inches from the 20-inch height needed to get 15½ inches for each of the 16 vertical supports.

Cut 16 vertical supports from 2-by-4 lumber, using the calculations for desired bed height. Cut the boards with a miter saw to achieve a clean, straight cut through each board.

Stack two vertical supports with wide sides facing together, apply wood glue and allow to dry according to the product label. Screw the pieces together with 3-inch wood screws; use two screws at the top, two in the center and two at the bottom. Repeat with the remaining vertical supports until you have eight finished pieces.

Screw the vertical supports to the horizontal support plates installed on the floor; one support butts against the wall at each end of the horizontal plate and the other two are spaced evenly between the ends. Each of the horizontal plates requires a total of four vertical supports. Insert the screws at an angle to ensure a proper hold; you may prefer to predrill pilot holes and use 3-inch self-tapping screws.

Place the remaining two horizontal support plates on top of the vertical supports; these are the double-stacked 2-by-4s set aside in Step 5. Apply wood glue to the vertical supports if desired, then screw the support plate to the vertical supports with 3-inch wood screws inserted at an angle.

Measure the space between the front and back support structures, then cut two pieces of 2-by-4 lumber to this length.

Screw these pieces in place with 3-inch wood screws at the head and foot of the bed to create end cleats to accommodate the mattress. The end cleats are installed with wide sides facing in and the top of the cleats flush with the top of the support structures.

Run an electronic stud finder along each wall to locate the studs, then anchor the end cleats to the wall through the studs.

Measure the width and depth of the finished bed frame, then cut mattress supports to fit the frame. Cut a 3/4-inch piece of plywood to cover the entire area frame or cut several 2-by-6-inch boards to the depth measurement and space them 1/2-inch apart down the bed frame. Screw in place with 3-inch wood screws in the corner of each 2-by-6 or spaced 6-inches apart on plywood.

Measure the front face of the finished bed frame, then cover with your choice of wallboard coverings, such as sheetrock or plywood covered with wood veneer, wainscoting or beadboard. If desired, install drawers or cabinets doors for extra storage in the three open spaces between vertical supports. Paint these finishes any color to match the rest of the room.

Add to the built-in effect with a proscenium-arch-style frame installed over the bed, using a piece of 1/2-inch plywood cut with your choice of design, such as a tent-shaped frame or curved design. Screw a 2-by-4 into the ceiling joists and screw two short pieces into the studs at the top of the wall--these pieces must be shorter than the arch piece. Screw the plywood arch into the 2-by-4s with 3-inch wood screws for a secure hold. Paint the plywood and finish with crown moulding, if desired.

Set the mattress in place on top of the plywood or 2-by-6 mattress supports. A box spring is not necessary for this structure.