Examine the taped seams. Look for bubbles, tears, lifting edges or any other signs of damage. Score around any damaged portions with a sharp utility knife. Pry out the scored section, and brush off any crumbs of drywall or loose bits of paper.
Embed paper tape over any seams you uncovered while removing damaged areas. Apply a thin coat of joint compound, using a 6- or 8-inch drywall knife. Cut a section of paper drywall tape to match the length of the seam and lay it on the compound. For interior angles, fold the tape in half lengthwise first to create a sharp angle. Smooth the tape with your drywall knife to embed it.
Push the surfaces around each coated nail or screw head. If a small bulge appears when you push, install a drywall screw about one inch away to stabilize the drywall. Score around and pry out prominent bulges, and brush away loose material.
Cover all taped seams with a thick but smooth coat of joint compound to begin the second coat. Coat all outside corners wrapped in metal. Use a 12-inch drywall knife, which offers greater coverage. Coat all nail or screw heads with a thin layer of compound, filling any depressions completely.
Allow the compound to dry overnight, or according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Sand your work with 100-grit sandpaper until it’s free of protrusions.
Mix joint compound with enough water to achieve a pancake batter-like consistency. Perform the final coat by applying the thin compound over the sanded work and immediately wiping it off.
Allow the compound to dry for several hours, or until bone white. Sand everything with 150-grit sandpaper to prepare the surfaces for priming and painting.