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DIY Framing: Basement Walls

Basements tend to be dark and dingy areas that are often damp and musty. However, they don't have to be this way. Many people finish the walls of a basement area so they can have an extra room for various activities such as a children's playroom, extra bedroom or game room. If you are considering finishing your basement, you need to clean up the walls and floor first. Once you're done, you can start framing the walls.

Things You'll Need

  • Utility knife
  • Ridged foam board insulation
  • Construction glue
  • Caulk
  • Measuring tape
  • Circular saw
  • 2-inch by 4-inch boards
  • Square
  • Drill
  • 3-inch screws
  • Masonry screws
  • 2-inch by 6-inch boards
  • 1-inch-thick wood for window trim
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Instructions

  1. Walls

    • 1

      Squirt construction adhesive on the wall and place ridged foam insulation on it. Wait a few seconds for the glue to become tacky before setting the board on the wall. Cut the board as needed with a utility knife so that its length can fit the wall or fit around outlets and other items. Cover all the basement walls with the insulation. This will help keep the area warmer and also acts as a vapor barrier against the concrete.

    • 2

      Squirt caulk along the seams between the insulation boards. Flatten the caulk beads out with your finger to seal the seams watertight. Also apply caulk to the top and bottom of the boards.

    • 3

      Measure the length of a wall. Measure a 2-inch by 4-inch board to this length and mark it. Cut it with a circular saw. Use this board to mark a second board and cut it to the same length.

    • 4

      Place the two boards together so that their 4-inch sides are next to each other. Measure the boards' 2-inch sides together and make a note of that measurement.

    • 5

      Measure the height of the wall and subtract the measurement from Step 4. Cut 2-inch by 4-inch boards for the wall studs using this measurement. You need enough to have one stud every 16 inches.

    • 6

      Lay the top and bottom boards on the ground so they are resting on their 2-inch sides. These are the top and bottom plates of the frame wall.

    • 7

      Place the first stud between the top and bottom plates. Put it on one end, and use a square to ensure that it is perpendicular. Screw through the bottom plate and into the end of the stud, using 3-inch screws. Repeat with the top plate. Use two screws for each end. Repeat with the additional studs, placing them 16 inches apart.

    • 8

      Raise the frame wall and set it up against the rigid foam board. Drill 3-inch screws through the top plate and into the ceiling joists. Use masonry screws to attach the bottom plate to the floor in the same way. Repeat with all other walls until the basement is completely framed. You can then cover the framed walls with whatever material you choose.

    Obstructions

    • 9

      Measure the opening between wall studs where pipes or other obstructions are located. Cut 2-inch by 6-inch boards to fit the length of the obstruction, and cut smaller pieces as well for the top and bottom plates.

    • 10

      Screw the 2-inch by 6-inch small bottom board to the floor below the obstruction. Place the side boards on the inside of the regular 2-inch by 4-inch studs so that approximately 2 inches over the boards overlap. Screw the boards to each other. Finally, attach the other small board to the top. This forms a box around the obstruction that is sticking out farther than the regular stud frame.

    • 11

      Build 2-inch by 4-inch lumber frames the same as the others, only as half-walls, to frame concrete walls that are shorter, such as those below a window. In this case, you won't have a ceiling to attach the top plate of the frame. It will rely on being screwed to the studs. Measure the concrete height as you would a full-size wall and build the frame as any other, just shorter.

    • 12

      Measure the inside of the window, if there is any extra room to add wood. Most windows will either already have a frame around them, or they will fit flush with the concrete, leaving no room for extras without blocking part of the window.

    • 13

      Cut 1-inch-thick or thinner wood to fit the measurements of the inside of the window, and screw it in place to cover the concrete.