How to Replace the Vinyl on a Home With Wood Siding

Start by removing the corner pieces of all of the vinyl siding. These are the pieces where two corners join. Start with the outermost pieces of vinyl and work inward toward the exterior sheathing. Use a drill equipped with a screw bit to remove each screw that holds the corner edging in place. Remove each piece and set it aside.

Repeat this process for the siding itself. Find and remove all of the screws for the vinyl siding. Set all of the siding together. Instead of throwing away the vinyl siding, consider taking it to a thrift store that accepts donations. Otherwise, recycle the vinyl siding at your local recycling center.

Measure the number of boards required per row. When using board siding, you need to measure the length of the space that requires siding and compare that to the length of the boards. For instance, if you choose 8-inch-wide boards that are 16 feet long and the house is 40 feet at this point, it will take three boards per row: two full boards and one half board cut with the saw.

Calculate how many rows each side of the house will require. For instance, an exterior wall that is 8 feet tall equates to 96 inches. Divide 96 inches by 8 inches to determine how many rows. In this case, the math works out to 12 rows. So for an 8-foot-tall exterior wall that is 40 feet long, the wall will require 36 boards. Use full boards when counting the number of boards needed; this will allow extra wood for mistakes as needed. If you prefer exactness, then all you will need is 30 boards, but this leaves no room for errors. Repeat this process for the entire exterior of the house. Don't bother subtracting window space as these boards will be used elsewhere, and having extra boards on hand is a good idea for boards that excessively warp or need replacement later.

Measure the wall for panel-type siding instead if you are using panels instead of boards. Each panel equates to 4-by-8 feet. An 8-foot wall that is 40 feet long will require 10 panels.

Secure the boards or panels in place against the top edge and work in a clockwise direction around the house. The exterior of the house should have a vapor barrier in place after you removed the vinyl siding. If it doesn’t, for added protection, add a vapor barrier. Unroll and staple it in place. Vapor barriers are available in widths to fit the house. Don’t pull the vapor barrier taut but smooth it as you go. Since all newer homes will have exterior sheathing, securing the boards to the house doesn’t need to occur on studs as you will screw the boards into the exterior sheathing.

Start one course of boards for the 40-foot wall, securing two full boards and then one half board in place by screwing the board approximately every 12 to 16 inches, depending on local building codes. Don’t use nails to secure wood to the house as the expansion and contraction process, during hot and cold weather, will pull the nails out. Use wood screws deep enough to penetrate through the boards into the exterior sheathing to hold the siding in place. Vary the board pattern so you don’t have seams that run the height of the house. Start with one full board, secure a half board then a full board. Start the next row with a half board, a full board then a full board. Begin the next row with a full board, a full board then a half board. Repeat this pattern along the wall as this ensures that no seam will run the length of the house and allow water in. Cut the boards required for the half sections, as needed, for the wall. Measure the length needed then make a mark on the wood with a carpenter's pencil. Use a T-square at the mark made, placing the top T-part of the square on the edge of the board then running a pencil mark down the leg of the T-square. Use a skill saw to cut along this mark.

Cut a board to fit around a window, following the row patterns. If the first window occurs 9 feet in from the end of the wall and you're on the course that requires two full boards and then a half board, add the board then cut one board 1 foot in length. Follow the nailing pattern and account for the window space as part of the board so the pattern doesn't get out of sequence. This is important to the visual appeal of the house. Keep the pattern in place, even when working around windows. If the window is 6 feet wide, there would be 1 foot on either side of the window for an 8-foot-long board section pattern placement.

Add trim to the corners, such as a 1-by-2 piece of wood abutted and secured to each side of the house. Caulk all seams with a caulk that will accept color.

Trim around windows by using the same 1-by-2 trim used on the home’s corners. If desired create 45-degree angle cuts at the corner to neatly trim around windows, but that is a matter of preference.

Seal the wood with an appropriate stain and sealer. Varnishing exterior walls is not a good idea as the sun can wreak havoc with varnished surfaces, requiring a lot of maintenance. Choose a stain and sealer based upon your weather conditions. Water-based sealers seem to last longer and don’t promote the growth of mildew and molds as much as oil-based stains and sealers do.