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The Installation of a Cement Driveway

Concrete driveways, sometimes referred to as cement driveways, remain a popular choice today. Durable and attractive, you can play basketball on a concrete driveway or wash your car without worrying about mud or grass. While the actual process of pouring the concrete can prove a bit labor intensive, the rewards will prove worth the effort. With a little preparation and knowledge, you can build your own cement driveway.

Things You'll Need

  • Shovel
  • Gravel or other stone
  • Steel mesh
  • Hammer
  • Nails
  • Stakes
  • 2-by-4 foot plywood boards
  • Oil or other lubricant
  • Trowel
  • Groover
  • Push broom
  • Burlap or other covering
  • Water
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Instructions

  1. Building the Driveway Form

    • 1

      Clear the area where you wish to put your driveway, removing any grass, tree roots, large rocks and topsoil. Dig to the depth needed; generally, the standard thickness of a concrete slab should be 4 inches. However, many soils need a sub-layer such as crushed rock or gravel to aid drainage, improve concrete strength and withstand freezing temperatures. Allow for both the sub-layer and the thickness of the concrete when determining the depth you will dig.

    • 2

      Create your forms for the driveway. Choose between 2-by-4 inch boards, plywood or even hardboard, also known as masonite. Plywood and masonite will be more flexible and ideal for areas where you wish to create a curved appearance. Drive stakes into the soil using a hammer every 3 feet or less down the length of your driveway. The more stakes you use, the sturdier your forms will prove. Continue down the length of the opposite side of the driveway as well.

    • 3

      Nail your desired wood to each stake, making sure the stake is lower than the board comprising the frame. Bend the wood slightly as needed to create curves. Run a straight edge across the forms width-wise to check level; check width-wise as well. Slope the forms slightly to aid drainage by dropping the height of the form about 1/4 inch per foot width or lengthwise.

    • 4

      Lay down gravel or stone as desired. Make sure this layer is even. Large variations in depth can cause concrete failure. Unroll steel mesh, cut to length and place it over top stone layer for even greater strength.

    • 5

      Spread oil or similar lubricant along the inside of the form to aid in the removal of the form after concrete is cured. This helps prevent cracking.

    Pouring the Cement

    • 6
      A Concrete truck pours concrete as you work.

      Arrange for a cement company to deliver your cement. As the truck unloads the cement, use a shovel or trowel to help spread it. Level the top layer with a screed, which can be a 2-by-4 foot board. As the concrete starts to set, lightly brush it with a push broom or similar object to create texture.

    • 7

      Make joints in the concrete for large areas. Drag a tool called a groover through the concrete to the depth of 1/4 inch. Typically allow for joints every 8 to 12 feet.

    • 8

      Cover the newly poured cement with plastic tarps or burlap to protect it and allow it to cure a week or two. Remove the covering and slightly dampen with a garden hose once a day during the cure time. Remove forms when cured.