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Comparison of the Growth of a Tomato Plant & a Pepper Plant

The growing needs of pepper and tomato plants differ from most other garden vegetables. At the same time, they share many similarities in the way they grow, how you care for them and the way you harvest them. Tomatoes and peppers tend to be troublesome to care for, but the good news is that once you've mastered the techniques for growing one species, you've learned most of what you need to know to grow the other one successfully.

  1. Description

    • Tomatoes and peppers are all members of the nightshade family. Originally tropical and semitropical plants, tomatoes and peppers must be seeded eight to 10 weeks before the last winter frost in North America. Seedlings shouldn't be set out until after the nights are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. They grow best at temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees. Peppers grow on the side of the stems, as do indeterminate vine-type tomatoes. Determinate, or bush-type, tomatoes grow fruit only on the end of the stem. Once they flower, the stems stop growing, and most of the fruit comes in within a few weeks of each other. Indeterminate tomatoes and peppers will continue producing as long as the plant remains healthy. The fruit of both tomatoes and peppers matures between 50 and 85 days, depending on the variety you plant.

    Soil Preparation

    • Tomatoes and peppers grow best in full sun that lasts at least six hours each day, and in well-drained soil. Pepper plants should be located 14 to 18 inches from each other in raised rows the same distance apart. Tomatoes do better when planted 2 to 3 feet apart in raised rows that are spaced 4 to 5 feet apart. Peppers and tomatoes need good air circulation to encourage pollination and to help keep the plants dry.

    Watering

    • Water both peppers and tomatoes deeply at least once a week and more often in dry weather. The soil should be kept moist, but never wet. Soggy soil encourages fungal growth, insect infestation and disease, so don't leave standing water around the plants. Water heavily around the base of the plants. Never spray-irrigate to avoid wetting the leaves. Shallow watering will result in the plants, creating very weak and shallow root systems.

    Fertilization

    • The seedlings should be fertilized at transplanting with a tomato-specific fertilizer with a low nitrogen content and higher phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium levels. High levels of nitrogen in the soil can stunt the growth of both peppers and tomatoes. Fertilize both peppers and tomatoes before the blossoms set, but don't fertilize peppers any more after that. Once the fruit sets on tomatoes, it will leach potassium from the plants and inhibit crop production if you don't supplement the soil with potassium during fruit growth. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a tomato or pepper fertilizer.

    Harvesting

    • Tomatoes and peppers can both be eaten green, though tomatoes aren't generally used that way except as fried green tomatoes. Green sweet bell peppers tend to be even more popular than the mature red, orange and yellow fruit. Peppers and tomatoes should reach full size before harvesting. Green tomatoes especially will never ripen further when picked before they reach full size. Both tomatoes and peppers change colors as they ripen, with the mature fruit coming in a variety of colors. Tomatoes and peppers turn orange, red or yellow in dark, medium and lighter hues. Some even stay green. Certain tomatoes produce multicolored and striped fruit. Peppers and tomatoes both grow sweeter as the fruit ripens. When harvesting peppers, cut the stems with a knife or pair of scissors instead of picking the fruit to prevent damage to the plant. Tomatoes should be cut as well so that an inch or two of stem remains attached to the fruit. Tomatoes ripen better with a bit of the stem left attached.