The amaryllis comes from tropical areas of South America. Although the Hippeastrum genus includes only one species called amaryllis, botanists have created over 600 hybrid cultivars. The amaryllis bulb is very large. After you plant it, it sprouts long, strap-shaped leaves with flowers emerging on a tall stalk later in its growing season. Some cultivars, such as the Naked Lady, appear to have no leaves because they die back before the flowers bloom.
Plant your bulb six to 12 weeks before you want it to bloom. For container planting, choose a pot that is slightly larger than the bulb. Your pot must also have a drainage hole. Plant the bulb in loamy soil that also contains peat moss, perlite or sand. Leave about half the bulb above the soil surface. Keep it in a sunny area where the temperature never drops below freezing. Water it only when the soil dries out.
After your amaryllis blooms, force it to continue growing. Snip flower stalks from the plant before they form seeds and keep your plant in a sunny spot for several months, which will encourage the bulb to grow large and prepare it for future blooming. Keep the soil damp and fertilize with a balanced plant food regularly, following package instructions. In spring, move your plant outdoors if you wish.
When you want your amaryllis to bloom again, stop all watering and fertilizing. The leaves will wither and die. A flower bud will begin to emerge after several weeks. When this happens, snip off all the dead leaves, move your pot to a sunny spot and resume watering. To prolong the length of time a blossom remains on the plant, keep it away from full sun and put it in a cool area at night, with temperatures of around 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
If your plant does not bloom, don't give up hope. Continue watering and fertilizing it all spring and then move it outdoors for the entire summer. If you give it additional fertilizer and wait until the following year, chances are your bulb will finally bloom.