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Do-it-Yourself Brick Stairs

Brick staircases have an advantage over wood in that they last considerably longer with less maintenance required. And although concrete is in many ways faster and easier, the look of brick adds a level of quality to the staircase that is unmatched. They are ideal for entries to homes from patios or as a welcoming front entrance at the street. When planning for a brick staircase, ensure that the ground is solid as the weight of the concrete base and the bricks on top will sink in less-compacted soil.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • Wooden stakes
  • Rubber mallet
  • String
  • Shovel
  • Level
  • Gravel
  • Scrap 4-inch-by-4-inch board
  • 4-inch-by-6-inch plywood panels, 1/2 inch thick
  • Sawhorses
  • Pencil
  • Straightedge
  • Circular saw
  • Hammer
  • 2-inch framing nails
  • 6-inch rebar poles
  • Motor oil
  • Paintbrush
  • Concrete
  • Scrap 2-inch-by-4-inch board
  • Mortar mix
  • 5-gallon bucket
  • Trowel
  • Mortar joint tool
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Instructions

  1. Concrete Foundation

    • 1

      Measure out the area for the steps with a tape measure. Mark the perimeter by pounding wooden stakes in the ground with a rubber mallet and tying string around them to form an outline.

    • 2

      Remove sod and dig down with a shovel to a depth of 6 inches around the entire string line. Check the excavation with a level and scrape the ground to get it flat.

    • 3

      Fill the bottom of the hole with 4 inches of gravel. Tamp the gravel down with a scrap of 4-inch-by-4-inch lumber so it is smooth.

    • 4

      Lay a 4-inch-by-6-inch sheet of plywood on sawhorses. Mark the dimensions and draw straight cut lines for a square panel at the planned height of the stairs and the length of the distance between the two stakes that form the side of the stairs. Subtract the height and width of a brick from each dimension to account for the brick layer over the concrete. Cut two identical pieces using a circular saw. Mark and cut a third panel at the height of the stars and length of the back of the stairs, again minus the brick height and length.

    • 5

      Measure across the top of one of the side panels and mark the end of the first step. Repeat this to note the location of all other steps to make them equal in length. Draw vertical lines to show the cut points. Measure down the vertical lines to indicate the area to place a horizontal line for the step face on the lower steps. Cut the stair profile shape using a circular saw on both side panels.

    • 6

      Cut panels equal to the vertical height of each step and the length of the front piece. These panels form the vertical steps by retaining the poured concrete in the forms. Build the frame by hammering 2-inch framing nails to create the box frame shape, and then adding the vertical step panels to finish off the final form. Place the frame over the gravel and check if it's level. Pound wooden stakes or rebar poles into the ground against the frame every 4 to 6 inches apart to keep the frame from shifting.

    • 7

      Paint the interior wood sides of the frame with motor oil and a paintbrush so that when the concrete hardens it does not bond with it. This allows for easier removal of the frame after the concrete hardens.

    • 8

      Pour concrete into the form. Add the concrete slowly at the bottom step and allow it to settle into position in the frame. Use thicker concrete for this, as a more soupy consistency doesn't work to create the vertical sides evenly. Spread the concrete throughout the frame using a shovel to get it evenly positioned. Move to the next steps in the run and add more concrete until it's complete.

    • 9

      Smooth the horizontal faces of the concrete with a scrap of 2-inch-by-4-inch lumber. It isn't necessary to make it perfect, but simply flat across the face. Leave the concrete to cure for a minimum of two days before removing the frame. Allow the concrete to cure for another two days.

    Brick Installation

    • 10

      Place the bricks in the general area where they are needed a few days prior to installation to allow them to acclimatize. Mix a sufficient amount of mortar in a 5-gallon bucket to an oatmeal-like consistency. See the individual product packaging for how to mix for the planned job size.

    • 11

      Spread a layer of mortar with a trowel 1/2-inch deep on the face and riser of the first step at the bottom. Smooth it evenly over the area with the trowel.

    • 12

      Lay bricks along the riser. Push down the bricks evenly into the substance, and apply 1/2-inch spread of mortar on the next brick in the line to provide the mortar between bricks. Check the run with a level at every third or fourth brick and adjust or tap with a rubber mallet to straighten them. At the end of a row, use a joint tool to smooth the mortar between bricks.

    • 13

      Repeat the brick-laying process across the horizontal face of the bricks. Allow the first step to set for 30 minutes before moving to the next one. Continue with all other steps in the same manner as the first. Install a facing of staggered rows of bricks along the sides of the steps to completely encase the concrete base.

    • 14

      Don't touch or step on the bricks for the first 24 hours and allow only gentle foot traffic for the following 24 hours.