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How to Build a Frame for a Wooden Gate

As in any architectural structure, the foundation or frame is primarily responsible for the structure's function and durability. Constructing a strong wooden gate frame that resists warping and sagging requires no greater investment in time nor money than building a weaker frame that will begin to sag after only a couple years. Using basic principles of geometry, the gate frame is constructed with mitered corners and triangular corner braces. Weather-resistant screws are used instead of nails to fortify the wood joints on the gate. No special tools or advanced carpentry skills are needed for this project.

Things You'll Need

  • Pencil
  • Paper
  • 2-by-4-inch weather resistant lumber
  • Measuring tape
  • Miter saw
  • Drill with drilling and driving bits
  • Carpenter's square
  • Coated screws, 3 inches long
  • 4 L-shaped flat corner plates, 3 inches on each side
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Instructions

    • 1

      Sketch your gate plans. Draw the frame as a rectangle. Include the height and width of the finished gate. Depending on the type of infill you intend to use, the height of the gate frame may be shorter than the completed gate. The width of the horizontal rails should be 1 inch shorter than the space between the gate posts to allow clearance for the hinges and latch. Four diagonal braces, each one-third of the length of the shortest framing member, form triangles in the inner corners of the gate frame.

    • 2

      Set the miter saw to make 45-degree diagonal cuts. Place one 2-by-4-inch plank on the saw table. Hold the plank firmly against the guide fence. Trim the end of the plank to 45 degrees. Refer to the dimensions on your sketch to measure and mark the plank to the length of a rail on the plank's longest side. Position the plank on the saw to cut the opposite end of the rail at a 45-degree angle. The cut ends of the plank are divergent, not parallel. Measure, mark and cut a second rail to the same dimensions.

    • 3

      Measure and mark a trimmed plank to the length of a vertical stile. As with the rails, the measurements are taken on the longest side of the board and the end cuts are divergent. Measure, mark and cut a second stile to the same dimensions.

    • 4

      Divide the length of the shortest framing member by three to calculate the length of the longest side of the four diagonal braces. With the saw blade still positioned at 45 degrees, Measure, mark and cut four braces with divergent end cuts.

    • 5

      Arrange the rails and stiles on a flat surface with mitered joints, like a picture frame. Place one L-shaped corner plate on each corner of the frame, centered to the mitered joint. Use a drill and driving bit to screw one leg of each corner plat to either a rail or stile. Place a carpenter's square on the corner. Square the corner, then screw the free leg of the corner plate in place to join the planks. Repeat to square and join the remaining three corners of the frame.

    • 6

      Place one wooden brace in each inner corner of the frame. The mitered ends of the braces are placed flush against adjacent planks. Screw the corner braces to the rails and stiles with two evenly spaced screws, each about 1 inch from the ends of the braces.