Build a temporary framework around the deck. Position 2-inch by 6-inch form boards around the perimeter, securing them to one another at the ends. Keep the form boards in place against the edge of the deck with wooden stakes secured to the outside of the form boards with double-headed nails.
Fill in the gaps and seams between the wood deck boards with a feather patch material. Scoop the patch material onto a steel trowel and press it into the gaps, filling them in. Smooth across the seams and gaps with the side of the trowel and allow the patch material to cure for two to three hours.
Apply a layer of wood primer to the entire surface to ensure a good bond between the wood and the resurfacing concrete. Use an inexpensive paint roller, working in an M-W pattern to create an even layer of primer. Allow the primer to dry for four to six hours.
Install metal lathe mesh on top of the wood. Secure the mesh to the wood using a staple gun, inserting a staple at each corner of the mesh and at several points along each edge. Overlap the seams by 2 to 3 inches to ensure adequate coverage.
Mix a batch of concrete according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply a layer of concrete to the metal lathe mesh with a steel trowel, filling in the small holes. Smooth the concrete with the side of the trowel and allow it to dry for four to six hours.
Paint the concrete with another layer of the wood primer, using the paint roller. Allow the primer to dry for four to six hours.
Stir the bucket of resurfacing concrete gently to avoid incorporating bubbles into the mixture. Pour the resurfacing concrete on the primed concrete surface. Push the thin concrete around on the deck with an industrial squeegee, taking care to cover the entire surface. Allow the resurfacing concrete to dry for at least six hours before allowing any traffic, and 24 hours before replacing deck furniture.