Fence Building Tips

Decay and Rot

• Decay and rot are natural enemies of the wooden fence and landowners must take action to guard against the threat they pose. Decay is caused by fungi, which are particularly aggressive in humid conditions. The primary cause of rot is water absorbing into the wood. The best ways to combat rot and decay are to use pressure treated lumber or apply a water repellent preservative to the wood. If you buy pressure treated lumber, make sure a stamp or label shows that it is pressure treated. Also, keep in mind that water repellent preservatives are only effective for wood used above ground.

Garden Fence

• If you live in an area near wildlife and are building a garden fence to prevent animals from eating your vegetables, you need to know your enemy. For instance, to exclude deer you need a fence at least 8 feet high. A 2-foot poultry wire fence stops cottontail rabbits, as long as you stretch the wire tight and set it at least 2 inches into the ground. For cows, you will need a ranch-type fence strong enough to withstand the cattle pushing against it. The most difficult animal to exclude may be the elk. A 12-foot wire fence is best, but a strong bull elk might still get through.

Picket Fence

• If you intend to build a picket fence near your property line, you should check with your local building and zoning authority. Building codes often contain language that put restrictions on fence building. Bury your fence post at least 2 feet deep in the ground. Building expert Tim Carter advises that you not use concrete to set the fence posts, as this is not necessary to secure them and will make it difficult to remove them later. He also recommends digging your post holes at the same time you build your fence. If you dig the holes first and make any mistake in your measurements, the post holes will be out of position. You should bury gate posts at least 32 inches deep and set them in concrete if they carry the weight of a swinging gate.