Measure the width and length of each step.
Cut a tackless wood strip for each riser, using sheet-metal snips. A tackless wood strip has points that stick out to grab and hold the carpet backing in place. Each strip should be 2 inches shorter than the width of the the step.
Place a strip against each riser, and center it. Pound it into place with a tack hammer.
Cut carpet padding, which will go on the treads. The pads should be the same width as the tackless strips, and 3 inches longer the treads from riser to nose. Make one pad for each tread.
Butt each carpet pad to the edge of the tackless strip, and smooth it underneath the nose of step. Staple it every 3 inches along the perimeter of the carpet pad.
Place a framing square against the end of the carpet runner to make sure it is square. If not, cut it square with a carpet knife. Then dab the cut edges on the underside of the runner with carpet glue to keep them from fraying. Allow the glue to dry.
Place the end of the runner at the bottom of the first riser. Staple the runner every 3 inches to the riser. Then pull the runner taut around the nose above the riser, and lay it flat on the tread.
Pull the runner taut against the tackless strip on the tread, and push it into the strip with your hand. Place the front-edge of a knee kicker 2 inches from the next riser. Hit the butt of the kicker with your knee to secure the runner to the strip every 3 inches.
Insert the blade edge of a carpet tool between the tackless strip and riser. Hit the carpet tool with a rubber mallet to secure the carpet runner into the crease where the riser and the strip meet.
Staple the carpet runner to the riser every 3 inches. Continue up the stairs until you have reached the top.
Cut the carpet runner at the top of the last riser with a carpet knife so that it is flush with the lip of the riser.
Dab the edges of the cut runner with carpet glue. Position the runner against the riser, and staple it in place every 3 inches.