A well built partition wall begins with the selection of the lumber. High grade lumber, at least number two grade or higher -- which has been kiln-dried rather than air-dried, and has no warping -- makes good partition wall material, advises Tom Silva of the This Old House website. A label on the lumber called a grade stamp will tell you the wood's species, grade and moisture content.
Marking out the wall before starting the framing helps ensure that the wall is plumb. Marks should be made on the ceiling and floor 3 inches from where the partition wall will abut an existing wall. Snapping chalk lines on the marks gives you the proper length for the top and bottom plates. These two long beams run the length of the partition wall and provide a housing for the wall studs.
Cutting the top and bottom plates and laying them on the floor or a work table allows you to mark the stud location. Studs should be marked every 16 inches on the plates except for the studs nearest to the ends of the plates. These studs should be marked 15 3/4 inches from the ends. A good way to measure the stud length involves placing a pair of 2-by-4s on the floor. These boards represent the top and bottom plates. Measuring from the 2-by-4s to the mark you made on the ceiling and repeating the procedure at the other end, as well as three spots in between, gives you the proper stud length.
The best method for assembling a partition wall is to lay all the pieces on the ground and nail them together. It typically takes at least two people to lift the wall into position after assembly. The top plate should fit flush with the marks on the ceiling that were made previously. If the bottom plate doesn't fit into position easily, a sledgehammer striking a piece of wood set against the plate might force it onto the floor marks. Bottom plates should fasten to the floor with screws, if the floor is concrete, or nails for a wood floor.