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Framing a 2x4 Green Plate With Floor Joists

One method of floor construction involves the use of sill plates and floor joists. Sill plates can be 2-by-4-, 2-by-6- or 2-by-8-inch lumber that have been treated to weather the elements. They are known as green boards. You secure these plates to the footings using anchor bolts that were previously inserted into the freshly poured concrete. Once the sill plate is installed, you will then add the floor joist. Floor joists are either solid 2-by-6, 2-by-8 or 2-by-10 lumber that you set on top of the sill plates to span the entire structure.

Things You'll Need

  • 2-by-4-inch green board
  • Tape measure
  • Circular saw
  • Angle square
  • Electric drill
  • Auger bit
  • Anchor washers and nuts
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Joist lumber
  • 16d nails
  • Hammer
  • Safety glasses
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Instructions

    • 1

      Lay the 2-by-4 green boards out end-to-end across the top face of the wall until you reach the opposite side. Cut the last green board with a circular saw to custom fit it, if needed. Lay the boards face-up with the outside edges pressed against the anchor bolts.

    • 2

      Place an angle square on top of the 2-by-4 green board. Slide the square down the wall stopping at each anchor bolt that protrudes from the concrete. Press the angle square's back fence firmly against the outside corner of the board at each bolt and scribe a line across the green board face. Measure the distance from the anchor bolt to the wall edge and place a cross mark to represent where you'll drill each hole.

    • 3

      Equip the drill with an auger bit that is 1/8-to-1/4-of-an-inch larger in diameter than the anchor bolt. Drill out each mark that you made on the 2-by-4 green board using the drill. Slip the 2-by-4 green board over the anchor bolts once the holes are complete. Slip washers over the anchor bolts and thread the nuts on, tightening each one with an adjustable wrench. Repeat the green board installation process on each outer perimeter wall.

    • 4

      Place header joists horizontally on top of the 2-by-4 green board plates, with its thin edge facing up. Flush the header joist's wide face to the outside edge of the wall. Secure the header joist into place by toe-nailing 16d nails through the lower corner and directly into the 2-by-4 green plates. Repeat this process on each outer perimeter wall.

    • 5

      Determine what direction the floor joist will span and measure 16 inches in from the parallel outside wall. Place a mark on the top edge of the header joist and set an angle square on the mark. Scribe a line down the inside face of the header joist to represent where the first floor joist will sit. Add a matching mark on the opposite side of the structure and measure the span between the two marks using a tape measure. Cut the first floor joist to length using a circular saw.

    • 6

      Slip the first floor joist between the two header joists. Flush the outside face of the floor joist with the scribed marks made on the header joist. Hammer a 16d nail through the outside face of the header joist directly into the butt end of the floor joist near the top and bottom edges. Follow the two nails with a third that is evenly spaced in the middle for a total of three nails. Measure and cut another floor joist every 16 inches, repeating the process down the length of the structure.