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How to Build a Closet Ceiling

Whether renovating an old closet or building a new one, structural wall studs are in place before the ceiling is finished. In an old home with excessively tall closet ceilings or a new closet without an attractive ceiling, you can build a new ceiling at the height you desire. The new framework is fastened to the wall studs. If there is a ceiling light in the closet, an electrician should disconnect the wiring before you begin and reinstall the fixture after the ceiling is complete.

Things You'll Need

  • Hammer
  • Pencil
  • Measuring tape
  • Level, 4-foot
  • Boards, 2-inch-by-4-inch
  • Circular saw
  • Wood screws, 3 1/2-inch
  • Power drill with Phillips-head screwdriver bit
  • Drywall sheet
  • Framing square
  • Straightedge
  • Utility knife
  • Drywall screws, 1 5/8-inch
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Instructions

    • 1

      Tap the wall inside the closet with a hammer to locate each wall stud. Studs respond to tapping with a sharp or hard sound, and hollows between the studs produce a softer thud. Mark the location of each stud on the wall with a pencil.

    • 2

      Measure up the wall to the ceiling height that you desire, and mark the wall with a pencil.

    • 3

      Place a 4-foot level horizontally against the wall, and adjust it until the bubble is centered. Trace the edge of the level to make a straight, level line on the wall. Move the level and trace its edge to continue the line around each wall of the interior of the closet.

    • 4

      Measure the length of one closet wall. Measure and cut a 2-inch-by-4-inch board to that length with a circular saw.

    • 5

      Place the board flat and horizontally against the wall, with its bottom edge aligned with the level pencil line. Fasten the board to the wall by inserting one 3 1/2-inch wood screw through the center of the board and into each wall stud with a power drill and a Phillips-head screwdriver bit.

    • 6

      Measure, cut and fasten more 2-by-4 boards around the closet interior at the level line in the same manner -- until the ceiling support is continuously framed.

    • 7

      Measure the space between the 2-by-4 frame boards from the front of the closet to the back wall. Cut one 2-by-4 to that length for every 16 inches of space inside the closet from left to right. These are center support boards. If the closet is deeper than it is wide, you can change the position of the center support boards to run from left to right.

    • 8

      Measure 16 inches from the left side of the closet. Place one center support board horizontally between the frame boards from front to back at that spot, tapping the board into position with a hammer. Drive one 3 1/2-inch wood screw diagonally through the bottom of the board and into the frame at the back wall of the closet. Fasten the opposite end of the board to the frame at the front wall of the closet in the same manner. Cut and fasten more support boards every 16 inches across the closet.

    • 9

      Measure the closet’s width and depth.

    • 10

      Measure across the edge of a sheet of drywall to the closet width measurement, and mark it with a pencil. Measure across the perpendicular edge of the drywall to the closet depth measurement, and mark it with a pencil also.

    • 11

      Place a framing square on either edge of the drywall, with its corner aligned with a pencil mark. Trace the edge of the square onto the drywall with a pencil. Repeat at the other mark on the perpendicular edge of the drywall. Trace a straightedge to extend each pencil mark, until they intersect.

    • 12

      Score the drywall straight across at a pencil line with a utility knife, then bend the sheet to break it at the mark. Cut through the backing paper to separate the pieces. Score the sheet along the other pencil mark, then break it and cut the backing paper.

    • 13

      Hold the drywall flat against the ceiling framework. Ask a helper to hold one end of the sheet if the closet is large.

    • 14

      Insert 1 5/8-inch drywall screws through the drywall and into the frame, spacing the screws approximately 8 to 12 inches apart around the perimeter and along each brace that runs front to back. Keep all screws approximately 1 inch in from the edges to prevent cracking the drywall.